Tailor .....the end of an era?

I do wonder soon if with the exception of London we will soon be left with very little indeed in the way od bespoke tailors.. Around where I am we have about 5 tailors left.  One is an Italian (good!) in his 80s (bad news - must go soon!), another is retiring this month...one is a real judges / lawyers stripy suit type and my own tailor Peter Harland boasts proudly est 1970 and since Peter is still at the helm it says all you need to know.

It seems in this digital age no one wants to get in at the ground floor or believes in it enough to keep things going....any thoughts here ?

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    • Interested in your opinion of good cloth makers outside of Biella or northern England, Frames. As someone who's worked in high end mens wear for 20 years (working for Pal Zileri at the moment). With the exception of linen and tweed, who make good cloth outside the two areas I've mentioned? My tailor inj England doesn't hold any swatches outside of those regions, neither in Italy (Sartoria Sabino). Does anybody else's? I do know that a S100 with a good finish is better than an S200 with a poor finish. Finish treatment is all down to the softness of water used. The softest water in the world is found is in Biella or northern England, hence their world wide rep as being the best suiting fabrics, as far as I was aware.

    • 3297936848?profile=RESIZE_1024x10243297947622?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024Sounds like the job of my dreams at Pal Zileri Harry - I loved last years winter collection .You may recognise these

    • Don't think we stocked those items Rob, we only stock some of the brand. You'll often see stuff that you can't get outside of Italy in the shoots.

    • You must be one of the few still making a living in the rag trade in this country Harry. High end or not seems were we once lead the world we now struggle to compete
    • I'm only shop floor George.

    • Interesting discussion regarding cloth and thread count agree totally that better thread count generally makes for better drape of suit and a good finish is vital. Only thing I would contradict would be Harry's assessment that the softest water in the world comes from these two regions as someone who has worked in the water industry for a large amount of years I know the softest water in Britain is found in Scotland this is the reason we produce the finest tweed in the world.
    • I stand corrected then George, but I still think that the best suiting cloths are made in northern England and northern Italy. Tweed of course is Scotland and the Islands and linen is Island. I don't know of any other makers of cloth that are held in thatlight else where in the world, but I'd be happy to be given anyone's opinion otherwise.

    • Interesting aspect on the cloth thread count this applies to all cloth including cotton used to sell wax jackets and were we got cloth was same place as Barbour got theirs manufacturer spent considerable time explaining thread count and different weave configuration which made it water proof with only a light coating of wax
  • I think we should be clear about Bespoke and made to measure. A made to measure suit is only made from a set pattern with certain points altered to fit the customer. Bespoke is having the pattern made to your measurements. I have seen a hell of a lot of made to measure suits that don't fit as well as OTP suiting with alterations. Collar and lapel gap are often visible. This is something you'll never see on Bespoke. If you try and cut the cost of having a suit made it will always show. Fit is king and a good cloth is very important. My tailor, Paul Fisher, cut his teeth at G&H on The Row, in 1977 he won the Golden Shears. Its not possible to even buy a good cloth by a British or Italian cloth maker (which are the best makers in the world) for a suit for £150 let alone have a quality suit made. A nice introduction into the world of tailoring but its still, entry level.

    • I think youv'e hit the nail on the head Harryboy. I used to go to my tailor with a specific look in mind and he would tailor the suit (or sometimes a coat) pretty much to my styling preference (with some fatherly advice thrown in). There was little or no buying suits off the peg until perhaps the mid seventies, when styles became much more generic. Apart from the quality of the cloth, it seems to me that all todays' OTP suits are cut on the same jig, regardless of make, material or pattern. Very sad, since a lot of what is sold as "mod" style doesn't even come close to what we used to be able to get....and afford.

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